Thank you so much for getting back to me, what you had to say was very helpful.
I do not know how to send pictures from my Chrome book, only know how to send pictures with my phone, I’m not very good with technology.
I did get Alex a rope perch recently, but he won’t go near it as of yet.
I read on the parrot forum that Vitamin E oil is good for pressure sores.
Do you agree?
And then someone on there said their Avian Vet said to put fish oil on a pressure sore.
And then someone said she wraps the perches in paper towels.
Thinking, how the hell does that stay on a perch?
Then another lady said her Avian Vet told her that manzanita perches wear down birds feet more so than other perches, just wondering if you agree with that.
Do not know what she meant by other perches.
Use of any oils on birds feet is purely anecdotal information and I doubt it will be helpful at all.
I highly disagree that manzanita perches wear down a bird’s feet more so than other perches.
What can cause injury to a bird’s feet, are concrete and grooming perches used incorrectly.
Those can hurt birds feet, especially when used as sleeping perches which we have seen way too often over the years.
Also, the long dowel rod perches that comes with bird cages are not good for birds feet because they have no uneven surfaces to challenge these complicated zygodactyl feet.
We recommend not even installing those when building a new cage.
The best way to protect the bird’s feet is by providing a minimum of three types of perches.
Typically a hardwood like manzanita or coffee (java) wood.
A soft rope perch like a Booda and perhaps an uneven plastic dowel perch.
The issue is providing a constant challenge to birds feet because of how their feet work.
Birds are able to perch steadily on pretty much any cylindrical “stick” because they can clamp down on the perch using their wonderful pulley system that works throughout their legs and ankles feet and toes.
If you do want to provide some cushion to the perches you have in your cage for the time being it’s best to use vet wrap which can be replaced easily for sanitary reasons.
The soft rope perch that you recently bought should be installed in the top third of the cage and used as the sleeping perch.
If there are any other perches that high in the cage please remove them to encourage spending extended time upon them.
Here’s a post where I wrote about proper perch placement – hope that helps.
MitchR talks about taking pet birds outside and pooping inside
A pet bird, taken outside should be done with a flight suit or harness.
Even birds with clipped wings can be sucked up by the wind and end up a state away in a matter of minutes.
Trying to restrain a bird by its feet is a fool’s errand and will only end up in failure as in losing the bird.
Shoulder riding is not inherently bad but should be an earned privilege.
Try telling this guy “no bird shoulder riding” but only if you’re feeling lucky.
No biting no nipping and best behavior.
Stating the obvious, no ear or face jewelry should be worn even if you have no intentions of allowing the bird to shoulder ride.
About the poop thing it’s a very simple solution.
Most parents poop approximately every 15 minutes.
Set aside some time to observe your bird to determine its poop schedule.
Before placing the bird on the shoulder note what time the bird pooped and 15 minutes later remove the bird from your shoulder with your hand and hold it out allowing it to poop.
At 67 (note profile pic) I have 10 budgies and a 16 yo African Ringneck Parrot, all rescues.
There is an enormous number of older rescue birds available.
BTW Dr. Karen Becker has a case study of a certified 25 yyer old budgie.
I personally know 30 year old cockatiels.
Most birds are rehomed because of timing, bad behavior or children.
Who better than a senior (like me) that has the time and patience that a millennial does not.
That said, pet bird rule number 1 – if you don’t like to vacuum don’t get a bird.
About the parrot age thing and the numbers (ages) people toss out about longevity of parrots.
It’s extremely rare a parrot will live in a single home for its entire life and instead may be rehomed more than once.
According to Valerie Campbell, D.V.M., “60% of the birds presented for autopsy showed signs of nutritional deficiency.”
That means at least 60% of pet birds died before they were supposed to in spite of all the “expert” anecdotal advice doled out on Quora & Facebook.
This happens a lot when a bird is molting AND producing eggs (males are not necessary for a female to produce eggs).
The caloric drain of regrowing 6000 feathers while producing 1 – 6 eggs can and will kill a pet bird which is the first place nutritional deficiency begins.
What is Teflon?
Teflon is a nonstick coating which uses something called a PTFE (polytetrafluoroethylene) or if you prefer a high-performance class of plastics known as fluoropolymers.
The stuff basically forms a chemical reaction and particles are combined into groups of repeating large molecules.
It’s basically dried on to the cookware.
At temperatures as low as 250° fumes from a PTFE surface may cause the instant death of a pet bird in the home in another room
Although people think of Teflon on cookware it’s in many other places in the home including waffle irons, hairdryers, humidifiers, cookie sheets and so forth.
Because we have 11 birds, we have thrown out all our are Teflon and replaced it with mid 20th-century stainless steel both Revere Ware and Farberware.
If you are using older Teflon cookware and you notice that it’s beginning to peel or pit slightly in the pan that means PTFE’s are being cooked in your food and slowly killing you.
Alternative nonstick cookware can be found in many “ceramic coatings” but they all have a life expectancy of about 15% or maybe a couple years against that of Teflon.
A third alternative can be cast iron which has been around since the 19th century and can be seasoned to perform as a nonstick pan using coconut oil.